Sebastian Strobl

Tag: capsule wardrobe

  • Transform Your Look: Simple and Affordable Tailoring Adjustments for Off-the-Rack Suits

    Transform Your Look: Simple and Affordable Tailoring Adjustments for Off-the-Rack Suits

    When it comes to looking your best in a suit, fit is everything. Even the most expensive, stylish suit can look mediocre if it doesn’t fit well. Conversely, a moderately priced off-the-rack suit can look exceptional with a few simple and inexpensive tailoring adjustments. In this article, we’ll explore some key alterations every tailor can make to enhance the fit and appearance of your suit and discuss why these adjustments are crucial for making a lasting impression.

    What to Look for in an Off-the-Rack Suit

    Before even considering alterations, it’s essential to choose an off-the-rack suit that serves as a good starting point. Here are a few key aspects to focus on:

    Shoulder Fit

    The shoulders are the most challenging part of a suit to alter. Ensure that the jacket fits well across your shoulders without any sagging or tightness. The seam should align perfectly with the edge of your shoulder.

    Jacket Length
    Just right – too short – too long

    The bottom of the jacket should cover your buttocks and the top of your thighs. This length is generally flattering and aligns with traditional suit proportions.

    Sleeve Length

    Look for a jacket with sleeves that end at your wrist bone, allowing a bit of your shirt cuff to show. While sleeves can be adjusted, starting with the right length minimizes alterations.

    Trouser Fit

    Choose trousers that fit well around the waist and hips. Ensure there is enough fabric at the hem and waist to allow for adjustments if necessary. Buying suit separates comes in handy, if you have a strong mismatch in jacket and trousers sizes.

    Fabric Quality

    Opt for high-quality fabric, such as wool or wool blends. Wool suits are categorized by their Super numbers (e.g., Super 120s), which indicate the fineness of the wool fibers. For instance, Super 120s wool is made from finer fibers, making the fabric smooth and soft, yet durable. Higher Super numbers, like Super 150s or Super 180s, are even finer and softer but might be less durable and more expensive. For everyday use, Super 100s to Super 120s wool is a good balance of quality, comfort, and durability.

    Key Adjustments to Consider
    Shortening the Sleeves
    Correct length – too short – too long

    Why It Matters: Sleeve length is one of the most noticeable aspects of a suit’s fit. Ideally, your shirt cuffs should be visible by about half an inch when your arms are at your sides.

    Adjustment: A tailor can easily shorten or lengthen the sleeves to achieve this perfect length, making your suit look much more polished. This adjustment is typically straightforward and cost-effective.

    Taking in the Sides

    Why It Matters: A suit jacket that fits well around the torso flatters your body shape and avoids the boxy look.

    Adjustment: Tailors can take in the sides of the jacket to create a more fitted silhouette. This involves slimming down the jacket around the waist and sides, enhancing your natural shape and making the suit look bespoke. This adjustment is often done in combination with adjusting the back seams for a balanced fit.

    Adjusting the Trouser Length
    Correct length – more casual variant – too long

    Why It Matters: Trousers that are too long or too short can ruin the overall look of a suit. The perfect length ensures a clean, sharp appearance.

    Adjustment: Tailors can hem the trousers to the correct length, whether you prefer a slight break or no break at all. Properly hemmed trousers should just graze the top of your shoes, creating a clean line. Additionally, consider tapering the trousers for a more modern and tailored look.

    Nipping the Waist

    Why It Matters: A well-defined waistline can make a significant difference in how the suit drapes on your body, providing a more tailored and sophisticated look.

    Adjustment: Tailors can take in the waist of both the jacket and trousers, ensuring they fit snugly without being too tight. This adjustment helps in highlighting your physique and ensuring the suit looks fitted rather than off-the-rack. It can involve adjusting the darts and side seams for a more contoured fit.

    Shoulder Adjustments

    Why It Matters: The shoulders are the backbone of a suit jacket’s fit. Poorly fitted shoulders can make the entire suit look sloppy.

    Adjustment: While more complex and sometimes pricier, adjusting the shoulders can significantly improve the overall fit. This involves adjusting the padding or the seam, making the jacket sit perfectly on your frame and aligning with your natural shoulder line. This is an adjustment best reserved for experienced tailors due to its complexity.

    Why Tailoring Your Suit is Essential

    Off-the-rack suits are designed to fit a generic body shape, but everyone’s body is unique. Tailoring adjusts the suit to fit your specific measurements, ensuring comfort and enhancing your natural features. A tailored suit communicates that you care about your appearance and are willing to invest in looking your best, which can positively influence how others perceive you in professional and social settings.

    Conclusion

    Investing in a few simple, affordable tailoring adjustments can transform an off-the-rack suit into a perfectly fitted ensemble that enhances your appearance and boosts your confidence. Whether it’s adjusting the sleeves, taking in the sides, or hemming the trousers, these changes make a significant difference in how you look and feel. Remember, the perfect fit is key to making a strong impression, so don’t underestimate the power of tailoring. Next time you purchase an off-the-rack suit, take the extra step to have it tailored to your body—it’s a small investment with a big payoff.

  • Stay Cool and Look Sharp: The Ultimate Guide to Wearing a Suit in the Summer

    Stay Cool and Look Sharp: The Ultimate Guide to Wearing a Suit in the Summer

    Summer’s heat doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your style. With the right materials, colors, and fit, you can stay cool and comfortable in your suit. Here’s how to master the art of summer suiting with detailed tips, examples, and weaving techniques.

    Materials and Fabrics
    1. Linen: The Ultimate Breathable Fabric
      • Linen is the king of summer fabrics, thanks to its lightweight and breathable nature. It’s perfect for staying cool, but be mindful of its tendency to wrinkle. For a more polished look, go for a linen blend. For example, a light blue linen suit paired with a white cotton shirt and tan loafers can be perfect for a summer wedding or an outdoor event.
    2. Cotton: The Versatile Choice
      • Cotton suits are a great middle ground between formal and casual. They offer more structure than linen and are less prone to wrinkles. A khaki cotton suit, for instance, can be paired with a light pink dress shirt and brown brogues for a stylish office look. Cotton suits are ideal for business settings, where you want to stay cool but still look professional.
    3. Lightweight Wool: The All-Rounder
      • Tropical wool or summer-weight wool suits are surprisingly breathable and wick away moisture. They maintain their shape and provide a sharp, professional look. Try a light gray wool suit with a pastel shirt and navy tie for a boardroom-ready outfit that won’t leave you sweating.
    4. Blends: The Best of Both Worlds
      • Blends like linen-cotton or wool-silk provide the best of both worlds. They combine the breathability of linen with the durability of cotton or the comfort of wool with the luxury of silk. A wool-silk blend suit, for example, offers a subtle sheen and enhanced breathability, perfect for high-profile summer events.
    5. Seersucker: The Textured Classic
      • Seersucker fabric is characterized by its puckered texture, which promotes airflow and minimizes contact with the skin, making it perfect for hot weather. A seersucker suit in classic blue and white stripes is a timeless choice for summer gatherings and daytime events.
    Colors

    1. Light and Bright

    Embrace light colors like beige, light gray, and pastel shades. These colors not only reflect sunlight but also add a fresh, seasonal touch to your wardrobe. A beige suit with a crisp white shirt and brown loafers can be perfect for both professional and social occasions.

    2. Steer Clear of Dark Hues

    Dark colors like black and navy absorb heat, making you feel warmer. Save these colors for cooler months and opt for lighter alternatives in the summer. Light gray, beige, and even pastel suits can keep you looking stylish and feeling cool.

    Fit
    1. Unlined or Half-Lined Jackets
      • Fully lined jackets can trap heat, making you uncomfortable. Instead, opt for unlined or half-lined jackets for better breathability. These jackets have less fabric in the back and shoulders, allowing for more airflow. For example, a half-lined linen blazer can be paired with cotton chinos for a smart casual look.
    2. Slim, Not Tight
      • A slim fit is modern and chic, but ensure it’s not too tight. A little room for air to circulate will keep you comfortable without sacrificing style. A well-tailored suit that skims your body rather than clings to it will provide a sleek silhouette and help you stay cool.
    3. Breathable Shirts
      • Your shirt choice is just as important as your suit. Opt for shirts made from lightweight fabrics like cotton or linen. A looser fit will enhance airflow, helping you stay cool. For instance, a light blue linen shirt can be a great match for a beige cotton suit, offering a relaxed yet refined look.
    Weaving Techniques
    1. Fil-a-Fil: The Fine Detail
      • Also known as end-on-end, fil-a-fil fabric is woven with alternating threads, giving it a subtle, two-tone appearance. This weave is lightweight and breathable, making it excellent for summer. A light gray fil-a-fil suit paired with a white dress shirt can offer a sophisticated look with a bit of texture.
    2. Houndstooth: The Stylish Pattern
      • Houndstooth is a classic pattern that’s typically woven in wool, but lighter variations are available for summer. Its broken check pattern adds visual interest without being overwhelming. A light blue houndstooth blazer with white chinos can be a standout choice for summer evenings.
    3. Seersucker: The Textured Classic
      • Seersucker fabric is characterized by its puckered texture, which promotes airflow and minimizes contact with the skin, making it perfect for hot weather. A seersucker suit in classic blue and white stripes is a timeless choice for summer gatherings and daytime events.
    Shoes
    1. Loafers: The Casual Chic
      • Loafers are perfect for summer suits. They’re easy to slip on and off, breathable, and come in various styles to match your outfit. Pair them with no-show socks to keep your feet cool and dry. For example, suede loafers in a light brown shade can complement a navy linen suit beautifully.
    2. Brogues: The Stylish Statement
      • Brogues, with their perforated patterns, offer more breathability than other dress shoes. Opt for lighter colors like tan or light brown to complement your summer suit. A pair of tan brogues with a light gray wool suit can add a touch of classic elegance.
    3. Boat Shoes: The Relaxed Option
      • For a more casual look, boat shoes are a great option. They’re comfortable, breathable, and stylish, making them perfect for less formal occasions. For instance, pairing navy boat shoes with a light beige suit can create a nautical-inspired summer outfit.
    Accessories
    1. Ditch the Tie
      • An open collar can help you stay cooler and gives a relaxed, modern look. If you must wear a tie, opt for lightweight silk or cotton. A silk knit tie can add texture and style without the bulk, perfect for a semi-formal summer gathering.
    2. Light Pocket Squares
      • Add a splash of color with a light, breathable pocket square. Silk or cotton options will keep your look sharp without adding bulk. For example, a pastel-colored pocket square can complement a light gray suit, adding a touch of personality.
    3. Minimalist Watches
      • Keep it simple with a lightweight, minimalist watch. Avoid heavy metal bands, which can feel uncomfortable in the heat. A leather strap watch with a clean face can be the perfect accessory for your summer suit.
    Conclusion

    By focusing on the right materials, colors, fit, and weaving techniques, you can maintain a sharp look while staying comfortable in the summer heat. Pair your suit with the right shoes and accessories, and you’ll be the epitome of cool, no matter how high the temperature climbs.

  • 6 ways my life got easier through building a capsule wardrobe

    6 ways my life got easier through building a capsule wardrobe

    Are you tired of standing in front of your bursting closet before a big occasion, important presentation at work, or just your usual Friday date night with nothing to wear? Read below how building an interchangeable minimalist wardrobe influence my life for the better and who knows, some points may even apply to your life.

    Create your own personal brand

    So this is twofold, for once you will be able to have some kind of designated uniform for your work activities. This is going to make it easier for yourself, to separate work from your leisure, personal life. You change into your uniform in the morning, focus on performing in your workplace and when you come home, you slip out of it and cut the chords to work stuff. This is becoming more and more important, the more both parts of your day are blending together. Are you self-employed and using one mobile device for business & private matters? Do you have a job, where working from home is permitted and therefore a company notebook and a company phone are always accessible? It can get out of hand quickly with constant beeps and vibrations, since work is more and more globalized and you are co-creating across different time zones.

    The other big benefit is, you will be recognizable, people will be starting to get a good feeling of what they can expect from you. It will calm their minds, and give you more opportunities to take over additional, greater responsibilities or just being recognized for your work and successes. Even if next to no one would ever say it out loud in a workplace setting, your appearance is the first thing that gets recognized and you will be judged base on that. Maybe just unconsciously, but we all do it. You see someone walking around in dirty joggers with a little fluff around the waist, is your first impression that he or she is a top performing lawyer or doctor?

    Save time dressing & shopping

    Once you own several staple items, that go well together in any potential combination and for every setting you can think of. Be it a summer wedding, a day in the office or running errands around town. It will be quite easy picking a outfit, that generally is the same look you will always wear. Pick any one item for tops and one for bottoms, depending on time of the year and temperature slap an item for layering over it, grab any shoes heading out and you are good to go.

    As for shopping, once you know hat sizes and colors match your type and preference, it will be far easier to add to your wardrobe. If you are already in the position where you are completely happy with the items you own, it’s just a matter of replacing pieces that are beyond repair with similar things.

    Spend less money on clothes

    In general, once you developed a clear feeling for your own style, what you like to wear, what makes you feel great and doesn’t limit you in your daily activities, the need to go with the trend or buy the thing some influencer advertised will subside. Therefore you will spend less on clothes in general and the potential for buying sprees in online or physical shops will be minimized. Try to develop a healthy relationship with the stuff you buy. If every piece in your closet is an item you absolutely love and love to wear, why would you want to buy additional stuff?

    Mitigate decision fatigue

    As mentioned two paragraphs before, the more interchangeable the core of the wardrobe you build is, the easier it will become to pick outfits tailored to any occasion. Feel like wearing a suit, wear the suit, either with a dress shirt, an oxford or a t-shirt/ polo. It will look well composed if the patterns/ materials and colors match each other. There will be no thinking involved, just picking items based on gut feeling. Don’t want to wear a full suit, just use the jacked and go with jeans, or the other way round, pick the slacks from your suit, throw a plain white T over it and you are dress for nearly everything, even the modern office job. And you will stand out between all the functional clothes, jeans and running shoes outfits of your peers.

    Boost your self confidence

    Once you look good and feel good in the outfits you wear you will have a confidence boost. Even without any recognition from other persons. Not to say, that every compliment you receive, and you will receive a lot, once you are always slightly overdressed, will build additional confidence. Coming back on the (unconscious) judging of people based on first impression and appearance, if you get this right, people will start to talk to you differently. They might not be aware of it, but they will treat you more to your benefit compared to the peer showing up like pulled from his own ass and therefore looking not as well prepared as you will be looking.

    Make traveling and business trips easier

    The bigger the overlap between your professional outfits, your leisure outfits and the pieces you feel and move great in, the less items you will need to pack for a business or even holiday trip. This will save you time and mental energy while packing, while out and about and when you are coming back and need to wash, iron and put everything back away. Travel lightly and it will make traveling itself easier, less space occupied for luggage, maybe you can make do only with carry-on baggage, which will make processing through the airport easier and faster.

  • Clean & easy casual outfits for summer

    Clean & easy casual outfits for summer

    Finally the summer hit central Europe (kind of at least) so ditch the wool sweaters, the heavy wool or tweed suits and dress a bit more breathable.

    All you need for sheer endless different outfits, that all have quite the same base and look to them is 3 pairs of trousers, 3 pairs of shoes and 3 different dress shirts. Pick colors that work well together like grey, blue and white, or tan, brown and white, tan, blue, white, or even tan, khaki and brown will also work quite nicely. If you make it really complex, pick different shades, dark, medium and light. If you mix those it will always look great. So let’s quickly expand on that. For example you can go with white sneakers (light) put over tan cotton chinos (medium/ mostly) and go for a navy shirt (dark). Or swap it around, dark blue chinos, brown loafers and a white or light blue shirt. You get the idea.

    Having a lot of nearly identical pieces that fit great will make picking a look for the day far easier. Just reach into the wardrobe and pull on thing for top and one for bottoms, if you designed your overall wardrobe interchangeable, it will be a match. On the way out slap some shoes on, if you only have 3-4 pairs you love and that go with every outfit, you won’t accumulate decision fatigue starting your day and you will look great, for what ever plans you might have.

    Have a look at the gallery below for some inspiration. Pictured are only a few outfits that can be put together with the above mentioned pieces. Every Shoe goes with every shirt & of course with every pair of trousers, so will have enough outfits for most weeks of summer, without wearing a combination twice.

    If you feel extra dapper, or your workplace doesn’t permit going without a jacket, even in summer, you can always swap a light linen/ cotton blazer over it. Can be a classic navy blazer, or a brown/tan hound’s-tooth sport jacket. Can be a pretty leisure seersucker blazer or even full suit or a tan linen blazer, a navy double breasted blazer does always look great. If you are the type you can also go with green or khaki or light blue. What ever you like and keep in mind, to mix light/medium/dark colors with each other or have at least on catch piece. Think dark shirt under a light suit or light shirt in a dark suit. Even in monochrome looks there should be some kind of variation in tone.

  • Monday fun day

    Monday fun day

    Grey suit, blue/white striped shirt, navy tie and light brown accessories. Perfectly dressed for any workplace, destined to catch some funny looks from the colleagues showing up in cycling/ functional clothes made from shredded plastic bottles and Birkenstocks.

    To stand out has some pros and cons to it, but if you own your style and have some good story on your why for dressing well the pros outweigh the negative aspects.

    Keep it fun & don‘t take other people’s opinions to seriously!